
Sheet vinyl flooring, supplied and fitted
Cushioned, felt-back and fully bonded sheet vinyl fitted with welded seams and coving for wet areas. Free measuring and quotes across Kent.
Sheet vinyl is a single continuous roll of material, usually two metres or four metres wide, built up from a wear layer, a printed design layer and a backing that is either a compressible cushion, a dense felt, or a fully bonded flat sheet with no give at all. Because it comes off a roll rather than in planks or tiles, a whole kitchen or bathroom floor can often be laid with one or two seams instead of dozens of joints, which matters a great deal when the floor is going to see standing water.
We fit it in kitchens, bathrooms, utility rooms, hallways and let rooms across Kent, and in commercial settings such as changing rooms, cellar kitchens and staff washrooms where a genuinely sealed, mop-and-go floor is needed rather than a decorative one. It is usually the least expensive of the hard floors to buy, priced by the square metre after measuring, but the fitting is where the value or the failure actually happens.
This page covers how the different backings behave underfoot and under load, how seams are planned and welded so they do not lift, when coving up the wall is worth doing, and the specific ways sheet vinyl fails when it is neglected or fitted on the cheap. It is written from the fitting side, not the brochure side.

Cushioned, felt-back and fully bonded backings behave differently underfoot
A cushioned sheet vinyl has a layer of foam bonded between the backing and the wear layer, typically a millimetre or two thick, which gives the floor a soft, slightly springy feel and takes the edge off standing for long periods at a sink or a hob. It is the most common choice for domestic kitchens because it is forgiving on tired feet and quieter underfoot than a hard-backed sheet, but the same foam layer is what compresses permanently under fridge feet, cooker legs and dining chairs.
Felt-back sheet vinyl has a dense fibrous backing with almost no give, glued down over the whole area rather than just at the edges. It resists indentation far better than cushioned vinyl and tends to be chosen for busier domestic hallways and light commercial areas, but it feels harder underfoot and telegraphs more of what is happening in the subfloor beneath it. Fully bonded, non-cushioned sheet sits between the two, glued edge to edge with no compressible layer, and is the most dimensionally stable of the three when temperatures swing.
- Cushioned backing: softest underfoot, most prone to appliance dents
- Felt-back: firmer, glued full-spread, better resistance to point loads
- Fully bonded flat sheet: least give, most dimensionally stable
- Commercial-grade sheet: thicker wear layer, usually fully adhered throughout
Roll widths decide where the seams have to go
Sheet vinyl commonly comes in two metre and four metre roll widths, and the room is measured and drawn up before ordering so the seams land somewhere sensible rather than across the middle of a kitchen where a chair leg will sit on them every day. A four metre roll can often cover a small to medium kitchen with no seam at all, which is the single biggest advantage sheet vinyl has over plank or tile products when a genuinely joint-free wet area is wanted.
Where a seam is unavoidable, it is planned to fall away from the sink, the doorway threshold and any area that will see standing water or heavy foot traffic, and ideally along the run of light from a window so it is not thrown into shadow relief. Pattern match across a seam on a plain sheet is straightforward, but on a wood-look or tile-look print it needs the roll laid out and checked before cutting, because a mismatched seam on a patterned vinyl is very visible and cannot be hidden afterwards.
Hot and cold welding is what actually makes a seam waterproof
A butted, unwelded seam in sheet vinyl is not a finished seam, it is a gap that water, grit and cleaning fluid will work into over time, lifting the edges and letting the backing swell. Hot welding uses a routed groove along the joint filled with a matching vinyl weld rod melted in with a hot air gun, fusing the two sheets of wear layer into one continuous surface once trimmed flush. It is the standard for commercial kitchens, wet rooms and any area under a duty of care for hygiene.
Cold welding uses a chemical seam sealer that softens and fuses the cut edges of domestic sheet vinyl without heat, giving a near-invisible, watertight joint that is more than adequate for a home kitchen or bathroom. Either method depends entirely on the seam being cut straight and tight before sealing, because a wide or ragged gap cannot be pulled fully closed by weld rod or sealer and will show as a visible line that eventually starts to lift.
- Hot welding: routed groove, melted weld rod, trimmed flush, used commercially
- Cold welding: chemical seam sealer fusing cut edges, standard domestic method
- Seam position planned away from sinks, doorways and chair traffic where possible
- Pattern-matched cutting checked dry before any adhesive goes down
Coving and capping turn the floor into a tank for wet rooms
Coving takes the sheet vinyl up the wall by around 100 to 150mm instead of stopping at the skirting, formed over a cove former fillet at the wall junction and finished at the top with a capping strip that holds the edge and seals it. This removes the skirting-to-floor joint entirely, which is normally the weak point where water tracks behind the skirting and into the subfloor unnoticed. It is standard in commercial washrooms, wet rooms and catering kitchens under a hygiene specification, and worth specifying in a domestic wet room or a utility room with a washing machine that could overflow.
Coving is a different fitting job to a standard sheet lay, needing the wall junction prepped, the cove former fixed, and the vinyl heat-formed and dressed into the angle before capping, and it is priced and quoted separately from a flat lay because of the extra labour involved. Where coving is not specified, a well-sealed silicone joint at the skirting is the minimum protection, but it does not match a coved and capped junction for keeping water out of the wall base.
Sheet vinyl is a moisture barrier only where the seams and edges are sealed
A correctly welded sheet vinyl floor with coved edges is about as close to a genuinely waterproof floor covering as a domestic property will get, which is why it remains the standard choice for wet areas over LVT or laminate. But that protection depends entirely on every seam being welded and every wall junction being coved or sealed. An unwelded seam, an un-coved skirting gap, or a puncture from a dropped knife or a dragged appliance breaks the seal at that single point, and water finds it.
Underneath the sheet, the subfloor still needs to be sound and, on a solid concrete floor, checked for residual moisture before laying, because sheet vinyl traps whatever moisture is already in the slab beneath an impermeable skin. On timber subfloors a full spread of smoothing compound over structural-grade plywood is standard before laying, since any movement or gap in the deck will telegraph through as a ridge or a soft spot in the finished sheet.
| Weak point | What protects it | What happens if skipped |
|---|---|---|
| Sheet-to-sheet seam | Hot or cold weld | Water tracks in, backing swells and lifts |
| Wall junction | Coving and capping, or sealed skirting | Water gets behind skirting into subfloor |
| Concrete slab moisture | Moisture testing before laying | Trapped damp blisters the sheet from below |
| Timber subfloor deck | Smoothing compound over ply | Board joints and gaps telegraph through as ridges |
Appliance feet and furniture legs cause the most visible long-term damage
Cushioned sheet vinyl's foam backing is what gives it the comfortable feel underfoot, and it is also what compresses permanently under a fridge, a cooker or a dining chair left in the same spot for years. The dent does not spring back once the floor is warmed and the load removed, because the foam cell structure has been crushed rather than just flexed, and it is the most common complaint we see on kitchen vinyl after several years of use.
The fix is largely preventative rather than curative: wide load-spreading cups or discs under appliance and heavy furniture legs, and moving freestanding furniture occasionally so the load does not sit in exactly the same few square centimetres for years on end. Felt-back and fully bonded sheet resist this far better because there is no compressible foam layer to crush, which is why we recommend them over cushioned sheet in kitchens with heavy appliances or commercial settings with fixed equipment.
- Wide, load-spreading feet under fridges, cookers and dining chairs
- Rotate or shift freestanding furniture periodically
- Choose felt-back or fully bonded sheet where heavy fixed loads are expected
- Avoid dragging appliances across the sheet, always lift and carry
Cleaning routine and the damage the wrong products cause
Sheet vinyl only needs a regular sweep or vacuum and a damp mop with a neutral pH cleaner, and it resists everyday spills better than any other domestic floor covering because the surface has no grout lines or plank joints to trap liquid. The mistake we see most often is the use of strong solvent-based strippers or ammonia-heavy cleaners intended for stripping old wax finishes, which soften and dull the wear layer, leave a sticky residue that attracts more dirt, and can discolour the print layer underneath.
Steam mops are a particular risk on sheet vinyl because the heat and moisture they force at a small area can soften seam welds and drive water into any weak joint, eventually causing the exact edge lifting that welding is meant to prevent. A neutral cleaner, a well-wrung mop and a dry finish is the whole routine, and it is worth telling anyone who has just had sheet vinyl fitted not to reach for whatever aggressive kitchen cleaner is already under the sink.
Where sheet vinyl actually fails in service
The most common domestic failure is a bubble or a soft dome appearing in the middle of the sheet, usually because a small amount of debris, grit or an air pocket was trapped under the adhesive during laying and has worked loose over time, or because moisture has crept in under an unwelded seam and lifted the backing from the subfloor below. These bubbles do not go away and get worse underfoot until the affected section is cut out, the subfloor cleaned, and a patch re-bonded and welded in.
The other recurring failure point is at door thresholds, where a metal door bar or cover strip has been fitted too tight, or where the sheet has not been properly trimmed to allow for the door swing and traffic, and the edge tears or frays under repeated foot and trolley traffic. This is a fitting quality issue rather than a material fault, and it is exactly the kind of detail that separates a sheet vinyl floor that lasts a decade from one that needs attention within two years.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the difference between cushioned and felt-back sheet vinyl?
- Cushioned sheet vinyl has a foam layer that feels soft underfoot but can dent permanently under heavy appliance or furniture feet. Felt-back sheet is glued full-spread with a dense, firmer backing that resists indentation better but feels harder to stand on for long periods.
- Does sheet vinyl need seams in every room?
- Not necessarily. Rolls come in two metre and four metre widths, and a four metre roll often covers a small to medium kitchen or bathroom with no seam at all. Larger or oddly shaped rooms will usually need at least one seam, planned away from doorways and sinks.
- What is the difference between hot welding and cold welding a seam?
- Hot welding routs a groove along the seam and fuses in a matching weld rod with heat, trimmed flush, and is standard in commercial kitchens and wet rooms. Cold welding uses a chemical sealer to fuse cut edges without heat, giving a near-invisible seam suited to domestic kitchens and bathrooms.
- Is coving worth having in a domestic bathroom?
- Coving takes the sheet up the wall instead of stopping at the skirting, removing the join where water usually tracks behind the skirting into the subfloor. It is standard in commercial wet rooms and worth specifying in a domestic bathroom or utility room with a real risk of overflow or splashing.
- Why has my sheet vinyl bubbled in the middle of the floor?
- A bubble usually means debris or an air pocket was trapped under the adhesive during laying, or moisture has crept under an unwelded seam and lifted the backing. It will not settle on its own and gets worse underfoot until the section is cut out and re-bonded.
- Can I use a steam mop on sheet vinyl?
- It is not recommended. The concentrated heat and moisture from a steam mop can soften seam welds and drive water into any weak joint, which is exactly the kind of edge lifting that proper welding is meant to prevent. A neutral cleaner and a well-wrung mop is safer.
- How do I stop appliance feet denting the floor?
- Fit wide, load-spreading cups or discs under fridge, cooker and dining chair feet, and avoid leaving heavy items in exactly the same spot for years. Felt-back or fully bonded sheet, which has no compressible foam layer, resists this kind of dent far better than cushioned sheet.
- Why has the vinyl torn at my kitchen doorway?
- This is usually a fitting issue rather than a material fault, caused by a door bar fitted too tight or the sheet not trimmed to allow for door swing and traffic. It is one of the most common failure points on sheet vinyl and worth checking closely when a floor is first fitted.
Where to go next
Supplied and fitted across Gillingham and the ME7 area.
Supplied and fitted across Chatham and the ME4 area.
Supplied and fitted across Rochester and the ME1 area.
Supplied and fitted across Strood and the ME2 area.
Supplied and fitted across Rainham and the ME8 area.
Supplied and fitted across Maidstone and the ME14 area.
Supplied and fitted across Sittingbourne and the ME10 area.
Supplied and fitted across Faversham and the ME13 area.
Rigid, layered vinyl planks and tiles built around a wear layer and a printed decorative film, fitted glued or clicked over a properly prepared subfloor.
Slip-resistant sheet vinyl with an aggregate wear layer, welded seams and coved edges for kitchens, clinical rooms, schools and anywhere wet feet or spilled fat meet hard floor.
An HDF-cored floating floor with a printed decor layer under a hard AC-rated wear surface, usually the least expensive of the hard floors.
Sheet vinyl or LVT — which suits a wet room, kitchen or busy hallway best? Compare seams, looks and cost.
What seam welding is, why it's used on sheet vinyl in wet areas and commercial settings, and how it differs from a standard seam.
Safety flooring or standard vinyl — know the difference in slip resistance, compliance and where each belongs.
How to assess vinyl or laminate after a leak or flood, and when repair versus full replacement makes sense.
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Showroom and warehouse: Unit 9, Matilda Close, Gillingham Business Park, Gillingham, Kent, ME8 0PY